MoreDirt Workshop - Bike Cleaning
Keeping your mountain bike clean throughout the winter and keeping it maintained is 1 of the more important jobs you have to think about. Check out our guide!
Before we start there's just a few quick points and warnings we want to make...
Why should I be cleaning my bike?
Cleaning your bike after a ride will prolong it's life, so its a pretty good idea to make sure it becomes part of your routine especially in the winter. It's best to clean your bike as soon as you get home from your ride. Don't fall into the trap of getting home, going for a shower getting some clean clothes on then going back to clean your bike. Firstly cleaning your bike will probably get your clean clothes mucky and secondly all the mud will turn rock hard and makes your job when you finally come to start scrubbing a whole lot harder!
Do I have to use specific bike cleaning chemicals?
We don't recommend using products that aren't specifically for bike cleaning. You may think a quick squirt of washing up liquid will do the trick but these types of cleaners contain salts, so unless removed completely you could run the risk of destroying your pride and joy...
And finally...
This is only a guide! There's a million and one ways of cleaning your bike. In the unlikely event of you having a better method of cleaning than us tell us below in the comments and share your wizdom!
What you need:
Bucket
Water Source
Hose
Bike cleaning chemicals
Drivetrain cleaner.
Chain Cleaning Machine
Assorted Screwdrivers.
Rags
Sponges.
Assorted Brushes
Water disperser - Such as Bikespray from Muc-Off or WD-40
High Quality Chain Lube - We recommend a wet lube for the winter.
Time - probably slightly under an hour of it (or less if your not as thorough!)
Step 1 - General Cleaning.
Get your bike wet all over with a hose or a watering can. Warm water is more friendly on your hands but we wouldn't recommend using hot water on your bike. It's easier to wash a bike thoroughly just after you come back from a ride and no mud has dried on hard so a good hose off should remove a fair chunk of the mud.
We don't recommend using the pressure washer or a powerful hose jet. It may be a quick option but it could get inside the sealed bearings pushing the grease out and vastly reduce their lifetime.
Apply your chosen bike cleaner (Our favourite is the DuckSmart Earthmover as it foams up and sticks exactly where you want it!) and use a sponge or soft brush to clean the frame and and other non drivetrain parts of the bike. Follow the instructions on how long to leave your chosen bike cleaner in situe then agitate and wash off. To get in all the the nooks and crannies at this point its sometimes a good idea to take the wheels off and grab your toothbrush.
Step 2 - The Chain
The chain is probably one of the most important parts to make sure is clean and running smoothly. A clean chain will last longer and shift more smoothly during gear changes.
We recommend using a chain cleaning device, such as the Muc Off X-1 we have here. Its easier, faster and far more thorough than individually scrubbing each link with a tooth brush!
We use the Muc-Off drivetrain cleaner chemicals in the chain cleaning machine, but take extra care to rinse off all the nasty chemicals to avoid damage later down the line.
Next use a water disperser such as WD-40 or the Muc-Off Bike Spray to get all the water out of the links before you come back to lubing it at the end of the cleaning process.
Step 3 - Front and Rear Mech
The next step is to clean both the front and rear mech. On this bike here there isn't a front mech as it is running a chain device set up but its still pretty important to clean the chain device. We are once again using the Muc Off drivetrain cleaner in the spray bottle this time to apply it to the mech and then using a "dirty" drivetrain brush or sponge to get the worst of the mud off.
Brush off the worst of the muc then scrape out the gunk from your jockey wheels. Repeat for the front mech if necessary.
Then using a flat headed screw driver or similar shaped brush, scrape off the gunk from the jockey wheels of your rear mech. Finally use a water disperser and then leave it until you come back to lube at the end.
Step 4 - The Cassette
Next up you need to clean the cassette and the chainrings. Once again use water and a bike cleaning chemical to get the worst off using the dirty drivetrain sponge and a small brush (An old toothbrush does the trick).
Then take the small flat headed screwdriver to hidden grime down inside the cassette and rinse off. Take a rag and use in-between the cogs on the cassette to shine them up and get them looking great! Its easier to clean the cassette without the chain so its best to take your wheel off at this point. Finally use a water disperser on all parts you have just cleaned.
Step 5 - Lubing
Its time to Lube up! For the winter you want to be using a wet specific lube that will stick around in even the most horrible wet conditions. Lube your chain, jockey wheels on the rear mech and any other bits that are essential to keep moving freely. For example a pulley wheel on a chain device.
Finally give a good spray of bike spray all over to drive off the moisture taking care not to get it on your disk rotors or brakepads to get that show room shine. Go for a short spin around the block to double check everything's in working order. You could take this opportunity to tune in your rear mech limit screws in case you have knocked it on your ride or during the cleaning process.
Latest news
THE MERIDA EX 2026 - pre-registration is now open2026 Scottish Downhill Association Series Dates and Venues Announced
New Spot: Abergele Pump Track
New Spot: Cadishead Pump Track
Watch: Down For Life - 30 Years of Bicycles & Dirt
Popular news
Review: Shimano Saint PD-MX80 PedalsRockshox Announce 2014 Sid, Revelation, XLoc and updates to the Monarch
Review: Maxxis Ikon 26x2.35 Tyres